This morning we breakfasted here at Serena Hotel. I had yogurt, croissant, ham and black coffee. We walked down to Santa Maria de Maggiore, a beautiful basilica. It's original structure was built in the 400's. The patterns of many different marbles and tiles decorating the interior dazzle the eyes like a Navajo rug. Many symbols are plotted out on the floors, some recognizable, some meanings forgotten. There is a sunken chamber/chapel that contains a sculpture of Pope Pius praying to a reliquary across the room. In the reliquary is a piece of wood proclaimed to be from the manger that Jesus Christ was laid in as an infant. Along the sides of the main church interior are confessional booths labeled with different languages for pilgrims. Next we walked to Trevi Fountain. I thought it was by Bernini, but it is actually by Salvi after a design by Bernini. Anyway, it is gorgeous. It was, of course, swarming with tourists. After this we got gelato in a cone and walked back to the hotel. Brenda got chocolate and I got a scoop of lemon and one of cherry. On the way back I kept snapping photos and had to jog to catch up with my mother and sister. Sometimes I photographed magnificent buildings, graffiti, ripped layers of ad posters, my sister shooting photos, peeling plaster, etc. I love the juxtaposition of these ancient buildings with modern signifiers (antennae, street lights and street signs, graffiti). The majority of the graffiti, stickers and posters, adorn more modern components and buildings. We grabbed slices of pizza and I could only eat a third of my slice.
This afternoon we went to visit the Vatican, some of its museums, the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica. The Sistine Chapel was simply overwhelming. I had to imagine what it was like to have no television and all visual imagery came from handmade pictures or prints. My mind was able to calm and focus. Imagine, attending mass in the Sistine Chapel on a regular basis, when you weren't listening to mass, or were, you could explore the paintings. There are probably more surprises hidden in the paintings that those who have the time and attention span to investigate long enough find. The tour guide pointed out a figure in the lower right of the Last Judgment, in the section depicting hell. He had pointed ears like a demon. The guide told us that Michelangelo painted this figure to look like a certain cardinal who was not satisfied with his paintings. A snake is coiled around him and appears to be biting the man's penis.
I thought I had read that there was a Caravaggio painting on the way to the Sistine Chapel. I didn't see it, so I thought perhaps it was on the way to see La Pieta. When we got to St. Peter's Basilica, under which is allegedly the remains of Peter the apostle, I asked a guard if there was a Caravaggio painting there. He scoffed and said, "No! That is not necessary. We have Michelangelo here." -and he gestured to the corner where La Pieta was. :-)
Tomorrow we will go to the Borghese Gallery where they have almost a dozen Caravaggios!
La Pieta. La Pieta. La Pieta. A lovely, living thing made with such love that it must be locked away behind bullet proof glass, 15 feet away or more from those who long to gaze upon, want to say they saw, want a piece. The love is sincere, the love is there and it comes to those who approach it with simple, true love in there hearts. I saw the love and felt it but it was shy among all the snaps and flashes of cameras. It hid itself after a glance. Sistine chapel. Overwhelming. Too much time in the sun and now I have a pink mantle on my shoulders and neck. i slept for about an hour and have been awake for at least two. The others are asleep. For another hour I stood in the balcony of the hotel room window and watched people walking, strolling, smoking, leaning against a car, wall, pole and talking. The chatter and laughter like a muffled jazz performance warm-up session. I really want to go downstairs and outside, have a cigarette and share a conversation. Its very late now and the voices have taken a decrescendo. I stood there and thought about things I'm trying not to think about on this trip. I guess and hope that's why I write, to help them decrescendo too.
I thought I had read that there was a Caravaggio painting on the way to the Sistine Chapel. I didn't see it, so I thought perhaps it was on the way to see La Pieta. When we got to St. Peter's Basilica, under which is allegedly the remains of Peter the apostle, I asked a guard if there was a Caravaggio painting there. He scoffed and said, "No! That is not necessary. We have Michelangelo here." -and he gestured to the corner where La Pieta was. :-)
Tomorrow we will go to the Borghese Gallery where they have almost a dozen Caravaggios!
La Pieta. La Pieta. La Pieta. A lovely, living thing made with such love that it must be locked away behind bullet proof glass, 15 feet away or more from those who long to gaze upon, want to say they saw, want a piece. The love is sincere, the love is there and it comes to those who approach it with simple, true love in there hearts. I saw the love and felt it but it was shy among all the snaps and flashes of cameras. It hid itself after a glance. Sistine chapel. Overwhelming. Too much time in the sun and now I have a pink mantle on my shoulders and neck. i slept for about an hour and have been awake for at least two. The others are asleep. For another hour I stood in the balcony of the hotel room window and watched people walking, strolling, smoking, leaning against a car, wall, pole and talking. The chatter and laughter like a muffled jazz performance warm-up session. I really want to go downstairs and outside, have a cigarette and share a conversation. Its very late now and the voices have taken a decrescendo. I stood there and thought about things I'm trying not to think about on this trip. I guess and hope that's why I write, to help them decrescendo too.
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| Saint Luke, the patron saint of artists, outside wall of Santa Maria de Maggiore, Rome |
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| Trevi Fountain, Rome |
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