Saturday, July 23, 2011

Mask of Servitude

Alphonso comes to our table and asks us what kind of coffee we would like each morning at breakfast. He never changes his expression, even when the owner of the hotel jokes about sending Alphonso with us to the airport. My mom called it his "mask of servitude".

Gondola

Orifice and Water line in a canal

Ti voglio amar, Venezia

Post- and Proto-Renaissance, by Oksana Mas. Ukrainian Pavillion, Venice Biennale, 2011.

A painting by Francis Bacon from a small solo show in Venice
After reveling in the most wonderful cappuccino brought to us by Alphonso, we walked down to the bus terminal. It had stormed with lightening and thunder the night before and was still cloudy. An occasional sprinkle teased my cheek with the threat of downpour. We confirmed our bus for 5:a.m. to the airport to catch our 7:10 a.m. flight to our connection in Paris to Chicago. From there we will drive to Indianapolis where I will catch a 7:30 p.m. flight to Denver. I will arrive in Denver at 8:30 p.m. on Sunday, 4:30 a.m. Monday Italy time. Today was a little more relaxed with the big day ahead in mind. We rode on a gondola, very tranquil and peaceful, the sound of the water trickling and slapping, lapping softly against the brick buildings, echoing through the narrow canals. The movement of the gently rocking rhythm soothing my spirit. The sounds of chatter or music channeling from the byways, growing louder then dimmer as we approached and passed beyond. We had a lovely lunch of gnocchi and canneloni, a glass of lovely, red wine. We wandered and found Teatro le Fenice, looking for the Francis bacon exhibit. We found it and it was okay, BUT we stumbled upon the wondrous and whimsical installation by Oksana Mas from the Ukraine, Post and Proto-Renaissance. WOW! I don't know how many hand-painted, individual easter eggs, Ukrainian style, affixed to enormous panels, each one becoming a pixel in a copy of a section of Jan van Eyck's altarpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. It was marvellous. The presentation, inside a small, old building facing Teatro le Fenice, was a dim room, the masterpiece lit, sparkelling before you as you ascend a creaky wooden ramp. The creaks you make as you walk make you feel self-conscious, that and the larger-than-you face of Christ made out of Easter eggs is staring past you. Most people were incredibly silent besides the horrendous creaks they were trying hard not to create as they walked. A soundtrack of trickling water and whispers played in the darkness. It was such a blessing to have seen this piece, it made me so happy, an accidental discovery of great treasure. I had set out to see the Bacon show but didn't know I was actually supposed to see Oksana Mas. Funny how life works that way at times. We also visited San Giorgio Basilica earlier and saw Anish Kapoor's Ascension. I will write on that tomorrow as it is time to sleep.

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